Freud LM74R012: 12" x 40T Glue Line Ripping Blade

Great blade for fast, clean rip cuts on a portable table saw. The thickness keeps it from bending as much when you're technique isn't perfect. It leaves a pretty smooth cut if you run stock through a bit slower and leaves just the faintest blade marks if you push through quickly - which is easy to do cuz this blade devours wood. Great blade to have for ribbing lumber on a jobsite

I have several of these blades in our company shop and they work excellent and re-sharpen very well. I'll continue to buy these for our table saws.

It’s a great blade

This is a great blade. I've always been a fan of Freud products for their quality, sharpness and durability. This blade did not disappoint. It rips cleanly and quickly. I was able to go directly to glue up from rip without having to joint or plane. The only reason I knocked off a star was that I could still see faint blade marks on the cut, and I know the purists would not be happy with that. But there was no problem with the glue up for me and the seams were clean.

I have a jointer so cleaning up after a rough rip is no big deal. But, with my other thin kerf rip blade, a Freud 24 tooth one, it still meant that I had to plan ahead. That is, I had to cut parts oversize so I could joint both sides even if the rip was pretty clean. The biggest problem was that the thin kerf blade had problems ripping boards that were not "perfectly" flat. When I would buy hardwood, I would have to rip it right away. If the board had a chance to twist, ripping, especially relatively thin strips, was difficult. You could almost see the blade vibrate. Stabilizers didn't help. One could argue that you shouldn't be working with non-flat boards in the first place. Thinking back, I don't know why I have ANY thin kerf blades. I have a powerful enough table saw so that thick or thin doesn't matter. I can see where some craftsmen who must take a small, portable, table saw to the job site might need thin kerfs. I tried ripping both pine and oak with this blade. I thought the speed of cut was somewhat faster than the 24 tooth and the rips were, as is advertised, "glue line" ready. There wasn't any tearing or burning. I didn't try ripping any warped boards. I really like Freud blades and that is all I buy anymore except when I have a crude, non furniture, job like ripping deck boards. Then, I use the cheapest disposable I can find. I like the fact that Freud blades have recommendations printed on the side of the blade. That is, a blade may be good for crosscuts in general but not as good for melamine. So, if you are like me and have about 4 or 5 blades that you can choose from, you can choose the one that should give the best results for the material and type of cut. Just be careful when you are cleaning because the cleaner can remove all of the markings.

This is the blade I keep mounted in my table saw. Ripping or crosscut, this blade produces a smooth cut and rarely burns unless I pause feeding for some odd reason. This is a full kerf blade and doesn't deflect when cutting mitered corners for a picture frame. I produces a flat bottomed groove because every fourth tooth has a flat top. The other teeth are angled and are responsible for the smoothness of the cut. I have purchased three so far, two for my table saw, on for my sliding miter. I must send one out for sharpening because without realizing I cut some composite siding and dulled one of them. However, this is an industrial blade with extra thick carbide, so I expect it will come back good as new ever after several sharpenings. There is a thin kerf version, but I found it deflects slightly on hardwood miters and spoils the frame corner fit. It is still practically new, but I'm spoiled to the full kerf versions. This is by far the best general purpose blade I've ever used, and if you are cutting a glued up panel, you NEED this blade.

Works great on a jointing jig and great for cutting dados. Very happy with it.

Works like a charm. The Cut looks sanded and smooth. It does crosscut well too.